September Sweater Revisited

Back in early January, shortly after my proposal meeting and in the delicious lull of Christmas break I got the urge to knit something challenging. Something that would require math and thinking. I had two skeins of Fishermen's Wool from Lion Brand and I wanted to knit something cabley and fun. I came across September from Eyeloveit on Ravelry. You can check out her blog here. It seemed like the perfect challenge. She had posted vague directions here, that helped me with the main thing I didn't know how to do, the yoke and neck. But there was a lot left to sort out. What cable panels were those? How were they organized? Could I knit the body in one piece? The resulting project was fun and challenging and I love the sweater. I promised when I finished it that I would post my detailed notes from this mathematical challenge. But then you know what happened. Life. Dissertation. But! I have recently emerged from all of that and this morning as I was organizing/unpacking my yarn and patterns I came across my notes. Here are her original directions, with my revisions in red:

September Sweater

This pattern was originally created by Eyeloveit and portions of what are written below were originally posted at her website: www.eyeloveit.blogspot.com (Inspired by Life). There are a few fundamental differences between the way that she constructed her sweater and the way that I constructed mine. In this document, my changes/corrections are written in red.

If you have questions, feel free to drop me a line.

Contact me:

Cassie315@gmail.com

Or on Ravelry: PHDKnitter

To contact the original designer:

stepheely@aol.com

Or on Ravelry: Eyeloveit

Preface (Originally posted on Eyelovit's blog, but I second this sentiment):

I am not a paid designer. I knit purely for enjoyment! I have never written a pattern with the intention of anyone using it besides myself. However, I had such a response on Ravelry from people who wanted to knit this sweater that I decided to try to organize my notes and come up with guidelines by which to knit something similar to it. I’ll include the cable patterns I used (on the last page), but I don’t remember exactly how I worked the decreases into the cable pattern around the neck area, so I’m leaving you to be creative and pick your own cables. I will be happy to try to answer questions via my message box on Ravelry, but I can’t be an over-the-shoulder coach! For me, figuring out the quirks and researching to learn new techniques is part of the fun of knitting.

Notes on Construction:

This sweater offers unusual, but simple construction. It is knit sideways starting at the left sleeve. Stitches are then cast on either side of the sleeve to account for the yoke. Then, s

titches are decreased to knit the right sleeve. The most confusing part (for me) is casting off and shaping the neck area.

Once the yoke and sleeves are complete, sections are picked up and knit to form the back and fronts. Then, the collar and button bands are picked up and knit last. There is very little seaming involved, but the picking up of stitches creates a type of seam that gives the sweater structure. One of the main deviations between our two sweaters is that I seamed the underarms and then picked up to knit the fronts and back at the same time in one piece (no seaming). If you are interested in doing this, look for the red directions at that point later on in the pattern.

Materials

*2 skeins of Lion Brand Fisherman’s Wool – or any other worsted weight yarn that will block nicely (blocking is important for this sweater)

*US size 7 (4.5mm) circular knitting needles – I had to go with US size 9

needles to get gauge. I’m a tight knitter.

*Whatever materials you use to block – I use big beach towels, a windex bottle full of water, and a bunch of straight pins

*Darning needle

Gauge:

4 sts/inch – the gauge of the rows is not so important, since you will be measuring the length as you go.

I got 4.25 sts/ inch on the US size 9s and went with that.

Begin at Left Sleeve:

CO 100 sts

Work 2 inches in 2x2 rib (11 rows)

Cable set-up row: This is how I set-up my cable panels in

my sweater.

K1, P1, C8B, P1, K1 = 12 sts

P3, Encased Cable Panel, P3, = 32 sts

K1, P1, C8B, P1, K1, = 12 sts

P3, Encased Cable Panel, P3, = 32 sts

K1, P1, C8B, P1, K1 = 12 sts

Work in pattern for 6-7 inches (or however long you want the sleeve to be).

Worked through rows 1-16 of encased cable panel one time and began yoke on row 13 of the second time.

Adding stitches for yoke:

Using the cable method, cast on 20 sts at the beg of next two rows. (140 sts)

Work cable set-up row – work to match cable pattern on sleeve.

P3, Double Cable, P3, K1, P1 = 20 sts total

Take the time to recognize how the sweater is already shaping up. Your left sleeve is complete and if you are looking at the RS of the work, the stitches on the left hand side are the front of your sweater and the stitches on the right hand side are the back.

Work in pattern until the piece measures 4.5-5.5 inches from the newly casted on yoke sts. (depending on your bust)

Next row (RS): work 71 sts and join new ball of yarn. Cast off 6 sts for neck, work to end of row (63 sts). At this point, the back and left front sections are separate, and should be worked separately.

Next row (WS): work all sts in patt until last 2 sts, p2tog. Making sure you keep sts separate, work across the back sts.

Next row (RS): work in patt across

Next row (WS): work in patt, repeating the same decrease for neck as last RS row.

Now you will only work the sts on the front. The back sts will be worked later.

Next row (RS): Repeat decrease at neck on EVERY row. RS rows decrease at beg of row, WS rows decrease at end of row. Work four more decreases – 6 total sts have been decreased at neck. Now cast off the front sts (57 sts).

Continue working the back for approx 6.5 inches – end on RS row – and put all sts on holder (I kept mine on the needles since I have multiples)

I found it helpful to write the cables out to sort out where in the cables I would be after I CO for the right front. You want the cables to continue across the front in line with the cable that continues across the back.

Right Front:

Using new thread, cast on 47 57sts (or the amount you casted off from the left front)

Work cable set-up row – mirror the cable pattern on the left front piece.

Next row (WS): work all sts in patt, increase one st at end of row. Then, increase one st at neck each row three more times, then every other row twice (same as the decreases you did for left front)

Next WS row: work all sts in pattern. Cast on 6 sts using backward loop method. Replace back sts to needles (if necessary) and join the front and back.

Work in pattern for 4.5-5.5 inches (or to your measurements).

Cast off 20 sts at the beg of next two rows so you are left with only the right sleeve sts on the needles.

Work so that the right sleeve is the same length as left sleeve and cast off all sts.

Now you will pick up sts for the back and both fronts.

Instead of doing the back and both fronts separately, I blocked the yoke and then seamed the underarm. Basically I had a little shrug. Then I picked up 146 sts across the bottom of the yoke for the body. Why 146? Read on.

The body on my sweater consists of the following cables:

Double Cable Panel, C6B, Double Cable Panel, C6B, Double Cable Panel, C6B (Center of Back), Double Cable Panel, C6B, Double Cable Panel, C6B, Double Cable Panel.

The Double Cable Panel is worked over 12 sts, but that does not include any reverse stockinette “background” sts. I added 2 purl sts on each side of the Double Cable Panels, which makes each panel 16 sts total.

The C6B is a 6 st cable and I added 1 st of reverse stockinette stitches on either side of the cable as well as a column of K1 stockinette stitch on each side. Thus, my C6B columns were worked over 10 sts total as follows:

C6B Panel (with 2 border sts on each side – 10 sts total)

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1, K6, P1, K1

Row 2 (WS): P1, K1, P6, K1, P1

Row 3: K1, P1, sl3 sts to CN, hold in BACK, k3, k3 fron CN, P1, K1

Row 4: P1, K1, P6, K1, P1

Row 5: K1, P1, K6, P1, K1

Row 6: P1, K1, P6, K1, P1

Repeat Rows 1-6 for a C6B set within a column rev stockinette sts and single stockinette st “border” sts.

So, going back to the math, you’ve got 5 C6B panels (5 panels x 10 sts each = 50 sts total) and 6 encased cable panels (with the 2 border sts on each side – 6 panels x 16 sts each = 96 sts total). This means you need to pick up 146 sts around the bottom for the body. This is where the 146 st pick-up number came from.

The number of cable panels were selected based on a combination of my gauge and the number of sts. This also contributed to why I picked up 146 sts. My gauge was 4.25 sts/inch. 146 sts/4.25 sts = 34.35”. I have a 34” bust plus the cables suck in a little bit naturally, so this gauge and number of sts seemed appropriate for my measurements. If you want to make a bigger size, add another cable panel or two. Just always try to remember what you want centered across the back. I recommend drawing the panels out so you can “see” how the cable panels will lay in the fronts and across the back.

Once these steps are complete, the piece needs to be blocked.

After drying, I sewed the seams up the side and sleeves. Next, I knit the collar then the button band. I did 1 x 1 rib for the collar and 2 x 2 rib for the button band.

A final blocking of the finished sweater may be necessary for the collar and button band to lie smoothly.

First, I picked up 68 sts for the collar. Then, I picked up 126 sts for the button bands (picking up sts along the collar too). The button band pick-up method that I used was to pick-up 2 sts, skip 1, from the body sts. Make sure you pick up an even number of sts for the 2 x 2 rib.

If you are using the LB Fishermen's Wool you MUST block this sweater. The cables flatten out beautifully and the blocking really adds to the professional look of this sweater.

Encased Cable Panel (worked over 26 sts) Front and Back chest/yoke cable. I have noted in parentheses when I turned the other two cables (C8B and Double Cable) b/c it was easier to memorize those two cables and just know when they had to be turned in reference to the Encased Cable Panel. If this does not make sense to you, just ignore those notes.

Row 1 (RS): p3, k3, p4, k6, p4, k3, p3 (Double Cable)

Rows 2, 4, and 6: k3, p3, k4, p6, k4, p3, k3

Row 3: p3, k3, p4, 3/3 LC, p4, k3, p3 (Turn C8B)

Row 5: Rep row 1

Row 7: p3, 3/2 LC, p2, k6, p2, 2/3 RC, p3 (Double Cable)

Row 8: k5, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, k5

Row 9: p5, 3/2 LC, 3/3 LC, 2/3 RC, p5

Row 10: k7, p12, k7

Row 11: p7, (3/3 RC) twice, p7 (Turn C8B)

Row 12: Rep row 10

Row 13: p5, 2/3 RC, 3/3 LC, 3/2 LC, p5 (Double Cable)

Row 14: Rep row 8

Row 15: p3, 2/3 RC, p2, k6, p2, 3/2 LC, p3

Row 16: Rep row 2

Rep rows 1-16 for Cable Panel

2/3 RC: sl 2 sts to CN, hold in BACK, k3, p2 from CN

3/2 LC: sl 3 sts to CN, hold in FRONT, p2, k3 from CN

3/3 RC: sl 3 sts to CN, hold in BACK, k3, k3 from CN

3/3 LC: sl 2 3 sts to CN, hold in FRONT, k3, k3 from CN

Double Cable panel (worked over 12 sts): Braided looking thingy

Row 1, 3: knit

Row 2, 4, 6: purl

Row 5: C6B, C6F

Repeat rows 1-6 for pattern

C6B: sl 3 sts to CN, hold in BACK, k3, k3 from CN

C6F: sl 3 sts to CN, hold in FRONT, k3, k3 from CN

Please let either of us know if you choose to knit this or anything like it!

Audrey Affair

I'm on a little hiatus right now from the world of academia and I am loving it. I haven't worn a watch in a week and a half and I'm one of those people who has a permanent suntan from always wearing a watch. I buy the $9 target running watch (you know - the one with the red face and black plastic band?) that can be worn in all scenarios (i.e., at the gym, around campus, during my defense). I wear that watch until it disintegrates or the face is so scratched I can't see the numbers anymore and then I buy a new one. The latest one I bought exploded and despite my efforts with super glue, I couldn't get it to stay on. So, I figured, what the heck? I'm just sitting around knitting and moving the margins around on my dissertation, do I really need a watch for that? No.Speaking of, I had a little party for myself (in my head) last Friday after I submitted my dissertation to the graduate school. I checked all the appropriate boxes, my advisor and chair signed the appropriate forms, and I paid the "appropriate" amount of money for my lovely manuscript to be preserved in the library and online indefinitely. I ordered a hardback copy for my shelf, my parent's shelf (they're so proud), and my advisor's shelf. Then I did a little happy dance and went shopping! I ignored my e-mail all weekend, because who'd be e-mailing now that I'm finished?? Then on Monday I got the e-mail from my new "person I need to make happy." Apparently my margins are all wrong, my font size is not up to standards along with another long list of "things" that must be fixed before she gives her final sign off. AHHH! Does this process ever end?

Ahh, but look what I swatched tonight:
Her name is Audrey in Unst and she's made out of Berroco Pure Pima. Can I just say that I love this yarn? The color is definitely more true in the other 3 photos (natural lighting) and not that ugly orange/brown thing pictured above (artificial lighting). I bought a bag of it in March at some sale or another and I have tagged it and retagged it for about 5 different projects at this point. I think this one is going to stick though. And it doesn't just look pretty, the gauge is actually spot on and I love the way the fabric looks. Now, if I could just find my US 4 Knit Picks needle tips, Audrey and I would be on our way.

Don't you hate it when that happens? You're giddy with some new yarn or pattern that you think will be perfect and you grab your interchangeable kit, open it up and there's a big fat hole where the necessary size of needle tips should be. All of the other sizes are there. One size above? Sure! One below? Sure! The size you need? Nowhere to be found. You scratch your head and wonder when the last time was you used Size 4 needles? Size 4 is pretty small and you usually knit on 6s or 8s. Hmm. Fortunately, these days you can turn to Ravelry. You go to your project page and realize that the last project you used 4s on has been hibernating for a year. You dig it out of the box behind you that's full of unfinished projects, find the right one, only to discover it's hanging on a cable without any needle tips. Hmmm. I don't know the rest of the story, because that's where it ended for me. My 4s are still MIA.

Maybe when I finish organizing my yarn and knitting supplies, I will find them. That's what I keep telling myself. Or maybe I should just go and order some more now. But you can't go to Knit Picks' site and just order one set of needle tips. That's not even worth the postage. And therein lies the danger. Because I'd really like to buy some yarn to make pas de valse. And I bet I could afford it if I used yarn from Knit Picks. I'll just take a peak ....

PhD Knitter Gets a PhD

Just in case anyone still has my little blog in their blog reader, I thought I would proudly proclaim that I successfully defended my dissertation last week. PhD Knitter actually has a PhD now! That's my advisor in the picture above. As you might imagine, the work that went into getting to this point took a lot of time away from the things and people that I enjoy. Part of that sacrifice was this blog, but I am toying with the idea of returning here. I miss being an active part of the knitting and blogging community. I did continue knitting over the last year, but just never had the energy to post and take pictures of it. Maybe as I move forward as a post-doc at State university I'll have more time to reinsert myself into the blogging world. Let's hope so!

FOs and WIPs for Fall

Happy September to you! I hope that you are settling into your fall routine, whatever that might be. For me it means taking a class and seriously considering settling down and writing my dissertation. I have a plan to get the proposal to my committee by the end of October ...

I'm a little sad that I'm not teaching this semester. I miss interacting with students, but I'm thankful to not have the grading and lecture prep to worry about while I'm trying to write. There are three jobs that I'm trying to apply for with Aug 09 start dates, but it's all so daunting to tackle at once. So, instead of worrying about those things I knit :)

FO #1: Ellen's V-Neck Tank (ravelink)Pattern: Chevron Tunic by Kirsten Hipsky (ravelink) (WEBS link)
Yarn: Ella Rae Bamboo Silk, 6 skeins
Needles: US 7
Modifications: I knit this pattern in the round, instead of in 2 pieces as the pattern called for. I subtracted 4 stitches from the original CO to account for my change and I chose to leave 2 stitches at each side seam in stockinette stitch to keep the Chevron pattern consistent. I didn't make a lot of modifications to the decreases at the bottom, but on the top I made the piece significantly shorter. I used the Kitchener stitch to join the front and back at the shoulder seams. The yarn substitution was probably not the smartest as the fabric was very stretch - not good for a tunic. But, the person I made this for picked out the yarn and it is very soft - and fuzzy!

FO #2: Claire's Blanket (ravelink)
Pattern: Alpaca Baby Shawl by Marie Grace Smith (ravelink) (link)
Yarn: Knit Picks Comfy in Flamingo (which is NOT like a flamingo in color), 10 skeins
Needles: US 6
Modifications: None except for the yarn substitution. This was a great pattern that grows before you know it.
Here's a look at some of the things I have on the needles:


The one on the left is the Vine Lace Cardigan from Sweater Babe. It's coming along very quickly so hopefully it will be ready to go as soon as the first real cold snap hits. I'm excited about it. The one on the right is, well, socks. I'm trying my first stockinette stitch plain vanilla socks. I'm loving them, mainly because of the yarn I think. The color changes are so subtle and pretty ...

And Bend ... and Stretch ...

I'm busy practicing up for the Ravelympics. I made a gauge swatch for #222 Chevron Tunic (ravelink) from WEBS. I am making this v-neck top for the woman who invited me to live with her and her family this year while Luke and I are apart. I figured it was the least I could do! Plus, she purchased the yarn. I've made 2 trips to the yarn store in the last month to help other people buy yarn, which has stopped me from buying any new yarn for myself. (Score!) She picked out a gorgeous Silk/Bamboo blend from Ella Rae called Bamboo Silk. It's 70% Bamboo and 30% Silk. I rarely make gauge swatches, but this thing had better fit her so I decided to "warm-up" before the opening ceremonies. I started with US 6 needles and knit up a much larger gauge swatch than I normally make (if I make one at all). Too small. I was getting 24 sts and 32 rows instead of 20 sts and 28 rows. Then I checked the ball band. Don't ask why I waited until then to check out the recommended needle size for the yarn. US 7's. Sounded right given the gauge I got on Us 6s. So, gauge swatch part II is now complete and I am getting the recommended gauge. I actually like the look of the US 6's better, but I'll use the US 7s.
I'm trying to decide what to do about my second Ravelympics project (because one project was just not enough!). I want to make the Puff Sleeved Feminine Cardigan (ravelink) from Fitted Knits. I bought the yarn in desperation after I'd already moved all of my yarn here but I was still living in Baltimore. The pattern calls for 5 balls of Merino Style from Knit Picks. That's what I bought. But I spent some of this afternoon reading comments from people who made the top using Merino Style and almost all of them needed more yarn than what was called for. BUT several people also complained about the tops growing after blocking and being too big in general. So, it seems like somewhere in between those two problems there should be a compromise where it just fits, right? Either this project is doomed from the beginning with those two issues or I sort something out. Option B is to take the 5 skeins and make a baby sweater for Claire (my niece) ... or two.

So true ....

I relate to this so much at this moment -- maybe this is why I got a Mac a month ago ....I'm about to wrap up my Sunday of writing for some knitting time. I think I'm going to do some "practicing" (i.e., gauge swatching) for my Ravelympic projects....

FO: Chic Lace Cardigan

Did you know that you pronounce "chic" as "sheek"? It's true - I looked it up on dictionary.com. For some reason with all of my "education" that information never reached me. I guess that tells you a little something about how important being chic is to me! Nevertheless, I am quite pleased with my "chick" (as I was pronouncing it) little cardigan.This was a pattern that my friend from knitting group found at Patternfish. She is my ultimate source for the best and most up to date knitting info. For example, have you checked out Twist Collective yet? Goes online Aug 1. Very exciting stuff! And what about Planet Purl? A friend like her can get you in trouble - that much is for sure.
So, she found this pattern and convinced me to do a KAL with her -- just the two of us. Mind you, this woman churns out at least one sweater per WEEK. She is the most prolific knitter that I know. Also, keep in mind that I am fairly competitive (and so is she). Therefore, this sweater came together very quickly. I CO the Wednesday before fourth of July and finished up last week.
Pattern: Chic Lace Cardigan by Lanaknits Designs (Ravelink)(Patternfish link)
Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca - 5 skeins in Chianti
Needles: US Size 7 and US Size 5 dpn (for the front and neck edges)

Notes: This pattern was fantastic! We had our doubts in the beginning. My friend didn't like the lace pattern so she modified it to something similar (see her version here) but mainly we were skeptical about the front and neck on smaller needles. This sweater has very interesting construction. You start at the bottom with the larger needles for the body stitches and then you have two smaller dpns holding the edge stitches. It eliminates have to pick up the button band at the end, because you're knitting it at the same time as the sweater. It's very clean and convenient.
I also love the construction of working the two sleeves in the round and joining them at the armpit with a yoked top. Neither of us had ever seen this construction with a V-neck cardigan before. It fits perfectly in the shoulders. I'm very pleased. So pleased that I wore it to knitting last night in the middle of summer humidity and nastiness!

I have two projects actively on the needles right now Baby Lady E (ravelink) and Alpaca Baby Shawl (ravelink):

They're coming along pretty quickly, but I'm going to have to put them down where they are starting next Friday. I have signed up to compete in Ravelympics and I will be attempting not one but two knits! We'll see how that goes....

FOs: Claire Bear & Baby Kimono

Pattern: Baby Bobbi Bear designed by Bobbi Intveld (Ravelink)
Yarn: Blue Sky Organic Cotton, 1 skein beige, 1 skein tan
Needles: 16" US 8 needles and 4 US 8 dpn
Notes: I am so pleased with the way this turned out. The pattern is easy to follow and eliminates almost all seaming. You mainly pick up stitches and increase and decrease to create the shaping for the head. (As a side note, before I stuffed the bear and added his ears he greatly resembled Stewie from Family Guy.) The only modifications I made were using US 8 needles, mainly because I had those in 16" circulars, and going directly from the front and back sections to the head. Then I went back to pick up stitches for the legs. I didn't have any problems stuffing the bear after the head was already on. I also added a little "C" on the chest for "Claire," my niece's name. Oh, and I decided to do this to his backside ........charming, no? I'd highly recommend this and the Organic Cotton is the SOFTEST, SQUEEZIEST yarn. I basically used exactly one skein of the lighter yarn. There was enough left to seam and to do the duplicate stitch around his neck. However, I got about an inch into the "tight duplicate stitch" and decided that I liked the way his neck looked without it. So, I didn't do the duplicate stitch.

One more FO that's going in the package to my new niece is this:
Pattern: Baby Kimono from Mason Dixon Knitting (Ravelink)
Yarn: Knit Picks Shine Sport -- less than 1 skein
Needles: US Size 6 straights (bleh)
Notes: I enjoyed this, but eh? I mean, it's cute, but it's not the most darling thing ever. Quick and easy? Yes. The thing I'm most proud of making? No. But I guess I don't have to be "open mouth smiley face" with everything .... then what would be the point of the smiley face rankings in Ravelry? Yeah.Staci at Very Pink suggested that I might want to think about participating in the 365 day photo taking self-portrait thing. Several people whose blogs I read have participated in this and I do enjoy looking at their pictures. I also know though that half the reason I don't post on my blog is the agony of taking the pics, downloading them to my computer, uploading them to the blog, etc, etc, etc. Someone give me food for thought. Would it be fun and worthwhile to play in this game? Would you enjoy seeing my smiling (or not smiling) face in posts?